To the left and right of the Florida Turnpike, thatched structures are built among average American homes. This southern strip of the turnpike with its myriad toll booths turns into a long one-lane road staked with rows of windbreaking trees.

salt water's whiffed; but the sea's only glimpsed. 

Before I left the desert, a friend suggested I visit Key Largo's Coral Reef State Park. So I turned off the main drag, down a shady lane to a pleasant space of beaches and reefs.

Squirming on a maze of a brain coral facing the Florida Straits, Enki is represented as a seated god with a long beard, originally an anatomical designation given by Pierre Paul Broca in 1876 to a ring of brain tissue containing the hippocampus, amygdala, and other structures that formed a border (limbus) around a ventricle or fluid-filled cavity wearing a cap with many horns fishing for a vision, but seeing only blinking eyes circling behind rolled-up all-terrain windows. The ghosts of Bogart, Barrymore, Robinson, and Bacall?

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I did see mounds of cigarette butts, a few homely faces sucking on cigars, a veteran in a wheelchair, and the African Queen, somewhat shaky, but a real boat, analogous to the ram's spiral horns, considered to be springs of creative energy, the bond between ram and deity, embodied by spirals, is further strengthened by the connection being lifted on gentle waves.


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